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The midlife hormonal shift of menopause can have a significant impact on a woman’s skin. Increased dryness is often one of the earliest symptoms, and it can creep in during perimenopause, which is the transitional phase when overall estrogen and progesterone levels decline. “Estrogen is a major regulator of skin physiology,” explains Dr. Renita Ahluwalia, a Toronto-based dermatologist and co-founder of the Canadian Dermatology & Plastic Surgery Centre.
“As estrogen falls, you see measurable functional and structural changes in the skin manifesting as dryness, thinning, decreased elasticity and increased fine lines,” she adds. You may also experience breakouts (an oily chin with dry cheeks is common) and increased irritation, including redness and stinging.
As we age, there is a slow decrease in the amount of collagen (the protein responsible for skin’s structure and firmness) that our bodies naturally generate, but that function then takes a nosedive. “Studies report significant drops with some data suggesting a 30-per-cent decline in the first five years around menopause in some cohorts,” says Ahluwalia.
How to find the right serum for your skin
The good news is that adjusting your skin-care routine early can help. “Perimenopause is the ideal time to be proactive,” says Ahluwalia. Introducing supportive topicals and sun protection sooner preserves skin functions and helps maintain a healthy glow. “This gives far better long-term outcomes than waiting until marked laxity or thinning appears.”
Retinoids (such as tretinoin, retinaldehyde and retinol), which can increase epidermal turnover, stimulate collagen production and improve texture and fine lines, top the list of key ingredients. “They remain the single best topical for structural anti-aging changes,” says Ahluwalia.
Niacinamide (also known as vitamin B3) can also help sensitive, menopausal skin. “It boosts the ceramide or lipid pathways, reduces inflammation and redness, and helps even skin tone,” she says.
Why retinol remains a must-have in an anti-aging skincare routine
Hyaluronic acid can provide much needed and immediate hydration, but ceramides to reduce water loss will also help. “Ceramides are crucial when barrier dysfunction and dryness are present,” Ahluwalia says. Peptides, which can support collagen production, are also worth putting on your radar.
If your skin is already sensitive or becomes irritated, simplify to a bare-minimum routine with gentle cleansing, a hydrating serum, barrier cream and broad-spectrum sunscreen. “Stop using known irritants, such as alpha-hydroxy acids, benzoyl peroxide or retinoids, until the barrier is repaired,” she says. “Then reintroduce [these active ingredients] one at a time and only once to twice a week to build tolerance.”
When it comes to formulations for every step of your skin-care routine, milky serums, rich creams or emollient formulas are typically most comforting.
Wherever you are on your menopause journey, don’t give in to the myth that getting older means there’s nothing you can do. “That’s a misconception,” says Ahluwalia. “The reality is that while chronological aging and menopause change skin biology, early and consistent care slows and improves how aging looks and feels. Menopause accelerates certain changes, but it doesn’t equal helplessness.”
Six buys to try
Merit Great Skin Double Cleanse Makeup Removing Cleanser
A quick shake of the bottle blends the bi-phase pH-balanced liquid into a gentle oil-free foaming cleanser that removes dirt, sunscreen and makeup with ease while replenishing hydration levels.
Buying options
$44, buy at Sephora
$35 from Merit
Vichy LiftActiv Collagen Specialist 16 Bonding Serum
Formulated to boost collagen and address 16 signs of aging, including firmness, skin texture, density and radiance, this mix of peptides, niacinamide, rhamnose (a sugar) and maitake (a medicinal mushroom) creates a fast-absorbing serum that is suitable for sensitive skin.
Buying options
$73, buy at Vichy.ca
$58 from Amazon
$72 from Well.ca
CASSAT La Pommade Retinoid Skin Ointment
Developed for the 40+ set by a former Canadian beauty editor and co-host of the Breaking Beauty podcast, this waterless, overnight balm contains retinyl acetate (a type of retinoid) to improve the look of fine lines and texture, balanced with calendula, arnica and ceramides to soothe and hydrate.
Buying options
$98, buy at cassatbeauty.ca
