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Now that cold weather is in full swing, you might be looking to switch up your skin-care routine to boost hydration and lock in moisture. Going the “clean beauty” route can help, too, since cutting back on things like sulfates, parabens, and synthetic fragrances helps to avoid irritation and stripping the skin’s natural oils. But sifting through all the brands that claim to be “clean” can be difficult, as I mentioned in my guide to a clean anti-aging skin-care routine. To help make shopping easier, I spoke to esthetician Katie Sobelman and cosmetic chemist Krupa Koestline on their go-tos in the winter for supporting skin-barrier health and preventing transepidermal water loss. Below, you’ll find a full routine, from cleansing balms and pH-balancing toners to retinol-alternative moisturizers.
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Koestline says a cleansing balm is a must in the winter, since the formulas have oils that both melt away makeup and dirt and nourish the skin. Her recent favorite is from mature-skin-care line Aeston West because it contains moisturizing humectants and fermented ingredients for supporting barrier function. If you want a more budget-friendly option, Farmacy’s cleansing balm (made with antioxidants, sunflower oil, and exfoliating papaya extract) is under $40.
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Sobelman’s go-to is a creamy cleanser that won’t strip the skin, like this one from Dr. Hauschka. It’s formulated with moisturizing, soothing ingredients like calendula, chamomile, and sweet almond-meal cleanse.
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If you prefer a gel cleanser, Sobelman says Luzern’s cleansing gel uses coconut-derived surfactants instead of sodium lauryl sulfate, which can be drying for some skin types. And as a cheaper alternative, she says Pura D’or’s vitamin C face wash is a nice non-stripping option. It’s formulated with hydrating aloe vera and calming chamomile.
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Sobelman’s a firm believer that a hydrating and pH-balancing toner is a necessary step in a winter skin-care routine. Not only will it add moisture to the skin, but it also helps the following products you apply to penetrate more deeply, making them more effective, she explains. Her favorite one for barrier function is Marie Veronique’s toner, which uses apple-cider vinegar and gentle AHAs for balancing the skin’s pH and pre- and probiotics for balancing the skin’s microbiome. She recommends misting toners onto your hands and pressing it lightly into the skin between steps, referring to the Korean seven-step skin-care method.
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For a cheaper hydrating alternative, Sobelman recommends Josh Rosebrook’s Hydrating Accelerator. Aloe vera is its main ingredient, which is ultramoisturizing and soothing. It’s also made with antioxidants for protecting the skin from free radicals.
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The skin’s microbiome works in tandem with the lipid barrier to keep skin hydrated, explains Sobelman. If it’s unbalanced, then it can cause issues like acne, eczema, or psoriasis. One product she says has helped multiple clients with rebalancing their skin microbiome is Siv’s spore serum, which activates current microbes to promote homeostasis. “There’s no such thing as good or bad bacteria. There’s just overgrowth or depletion,” she says. “What we need to strive for is not anti-microbial, but a balanced microbiome. That’s what this does.”
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Koestline likes InnBeauty’s Extreme Cream because it’s full of peptides and ceramides and contains a biometric growth factor that has the same benefits of retinol (skin-cell renewal and collagen boosting) without having to use it only at night. Because of this, it’s not only good for transepidermal water loss but also as an excellent anti-aging moisturizer.
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Marie Veronique’s All Day Age-Delay Emulsion also uses a retinol alternative that can be used day and night. Sobelman likes that it’s antioxidant-rich and formulated with probiotics. She recommends adding a couple drops of rose-hip seed oil to boost hydration.
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Koestline emphasizes using an occlusive to lock everything in and prevent transepidermal water loss. Weleda’s Skin Food (a longtime Strategist favorite) is her go-to in the winter. Since it uses shea butter (an occlusive), it has a thick, creamy texture and is best for nighttime use.
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A humidifier keeps moisture in the air, which can help with maintaining skin hydration without having to add an extra skin-care product. Our senior editor Crystal Martin, who has multiple humidifiers throughout her apartment, says hers hydrate the dry air caused by heating. Canopy’s portable humidifier is especially useful, since you can easily set it on your desk or nightstand. Koestline emphasizes using one at night, since that’s when transepidermal water loss increases most.
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